The 1998 Barolo Riserva Capalot e Brunate suggests that even tiny crops can only accomplish so much with certain vineyards – Capalot is in an area of lightish Nebbiolo and it shows. The wine, nonetheless, with a pleasurable mint, caramel, and tar nose, has a certain length and solidity, but its slightly hard tannins indicate that more flesh is necessary to round it out. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2014. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620