It is becoming ever more difficult to find monovarietal expressions of Nerello Cappuccio, but Benanti has been making this wine steadily for many years, giving us the chance to know this grape better. The 2017 Nerello Cappuccio offers perspective on a variety that is mostly used in Etna red blends. When presented on its own, you get a medium-dark garnet color with aromas of wild cherry and dried blackberry. This grape often offers a strong note of freshly milled white pepper, but you don't really get that in this hot vintage. The darkness and the ripeness of the fruit take over. But you do get volcanic notes of scorched earth and ash. Have it with an eggplant pizza. Some 6,000 bottles were made.

The single aromatic characteristic that most distinguishes the Nerello Cappuccio grape is freshly milled white pepper. The 2016 Nerello Cappuccio delivers loads of white pepper followed by black fruit, green olive and grilled herb. This is a fresh, easy-drinking red with lean consistency and balanced freshness. The grapes are fermented with ambient yeasts, and the wine is aged in stainless steel only. Some 6,000 bottles were made.

Only four estates on Etna make a pure expression of Nerello Cappuccio and Benanti is one of them. The 2014 Nerello Cappuccio is an "academic wine," in the words of Antonio Benanti. It is meant to showcase the merits of a grape that has been relegated to the background as a blending element because of its bright ruby color. The bouquet offers slightly rustic tones of moist earth, tobacco and crushed white pepper. The quality of fruit is simple and bright. This grape does not have the complexity of its cousin Nerello Mascalese, but it is important that producers like Benanti continue to vinify it as a mono variety wine.

The 2013 Nerello Cappuccio paints a full portrait of the grape, with wild berry and balsam herb aromas followed by white pepper and black olive. The wine is a bit rustic and raw but that's what makes it true to the varietal. It reveals a solid tannic build with good density and moderate complexity.

I remember the first time I tried this wine. I was so excited to try this Etna native grape in all its glory and purity because it is not often vinified alone. The 2012 Nerello Cappuccio has undergone a package restyling. You might remember that it was once called Il Monovitigno. That name has been dropped and the front label has been made to appear more elegant and stylish. It's also now an IGT Terre Siciliane. The grape offers whiffs of freshly milled white pepper, forest floor and forest berry. It shows softer tannins (compared to Nerello Mascalese) and a more approachable style.