From a parcel that the Bouchard team farms and harvests, the 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village offers up a fragrant bouquet of raspberries, spices and rose petals, Weber observing that there is a lot of Pinot Beurrot planted among the Pinot Noir in this old-vine plot. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and fleshy, with good depth at the core and a perfumed finish.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village exhibits notes of sweet raspberry fruit, spices and smoky oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied palate with a juicy core of fruit, chewy tannins and appreciable amplitude and power. This hails from an old-vine parcel that Bouchard has purchased for many years and which contains an appreciable percentage of Pinot Gris—not uncommon in Vosne-Romanée.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Director Philippe Prost emphasized the importance of flexible and surgical picking (with a crew numbering upwards of 300) and getting his crop to Bouchard's battery of presses within two hours via a fleet of mini-vans. He insists that relatively little triage was necessary on the domaine vineyards (as opposed to those under contract) and the estate wines are certainly predictably stronger as a group. (I have generally mentioned in the notes that follow which wines are from Bouchard's domaine and which from contract fruit, but have explicitly noted this as part of a wine's description, only if there are two versions of the same appellation within the present portfolio.) The fruit was crushed very gently and the wines racked only once – at 10-14 months, than usual – explains Prost, in order to guard against exposed or drying tannins, a policy which my tastings suggest was generally successful. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6767

The 2002 Vosne-Romanee, produced from purchased grapes, was delicious. Its hugely perfumed, floral nose leads to a satin-textured, medium-bodied, and expansive personality. Elegant, pure, and lush, its rich flavor profile is composed of violets and sweet red cherries. Its tannin is present but admirably ripe. Drink it between 2006 and 2011. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

The 2002 Vosne-Romanee, produced from purchased grapes, was delicious. Its hugely perfumed, floral nose leads to a satin-textured, medium-bodied, and expansive personality. Elegant, pure, and lush, its rich flavor profile is composed of violets and sweet red cherries. Its tannin is present but admirably ripe. Drink it between 2006 and 2011. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575