The 2016 Letter Series O Chardonnay shows just how well Marlborough can do this variety. It's got attractive sulfides on the nose, along with hints of white peach, nectarine and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied, it wraps up with plenty of focus and length, anchored by a bright beam of citrus and pineapple. It should drink well through at least 2021.

There are simple tropical fruits on the nose of the 2005 Letter Series “O” Ormond Chardonnay, with touches of pineapple and green lemon. Nice definition although never a complex bouquet. The palate is a little heavy on the oak, lurches too aggressively towards the finish. Spicy and buttery, it lacks a little panache but it has good length. Drink now.