The organic Giacomo Brezza e Figli 2016 Barolo Riserva Sarmassa Vigna Bricco shows good power and heft over a medium-bodied approach. The wine exhibits elegant fruit tones with an emphasis on black and purple berries, and it continues with spice, cured tobacco and sweet gardening soil. The alcohol is high at 15%, but the natural fiber of this Nebbiolo remains fine and silky nonetheless. The wine ages in large Slavonian oak cask for two years. Production is limited to 2,577 bottles.

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Sarmassa Vigna Bricco serves as a very pleasant reminder of this lovely vintage that was characterized by warm summer days, lots of sunshine and cooler nights before the harvest. You are given a window into the depth and complexity of Nebbiolo here, with cherry, licorice and pretty highlights of dried mint or rosemary essence. Made with organic fruit, the Vigna Bricco is contoured and sharp in the right places, this suggesting some good aging potential. They released 2,436 bottles and 273 magnums of this vintage.

This estate has shown the most interesting results in the warmer vintages. The 2011 Barolo Riserva Sarmassa Vigna Bricco comes from a very toasty vintage, and the quality of fruit is juicy and succulent as a result. But even with that extra padding and chewiness, this wine is a little disjointed in places. It shows high alcohol (recorded at 15%) and a powerful finish.

The 2009 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa takes the Nebbiolo experience to dazzling heights. The power and heft of the wine is immediately apparent and the wine fills the palate, front to back. It’s a wine of fascinating juxtapositions. At one moment it feels astringent, the next it feels silky and long. The aromas are floral, then savory, then spicy in what is a constantly shifting and evolving aromatic presentation. The wine gains intensity and purity as it airs in the glass and this bodes well for its long-term potential. I’d love to revisit this wine in 10 or 15 years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2040. Brezza offers a beautiful window into the fascinating world of traditional Barolo. If you truly love that style, these are wines you will definitely want to enjoy and collect. Various American Importers, including: Acid Inc. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (917) 687-4848; P&S Wine Company, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3155; Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300

The 2008 Barolo Bricco Sarmassa is fabulous. It boasts gorgeous inner sweetness, cool minerality and fabulous perfume. Dark cherries, mint, flowers and spices wrap around the gorgeous, chiseled finish. The Bricco Sarmassa is one of the Barolo’s most under-the-radar wines. This is a prototypical 2008 that captures the very best qualities of the year. Layers of fruit build to the long, vibrant finish. Enzo Brezza did a great job with his Bricco Saramassa in 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. Brezza remains one of the best-kept secrets in traditionally-made Barolo. One day people will figure it out, but in the meantime shrewd consumers would do well to pay attention to the best wines that emerge from this small cellar in the center of town. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (917) 687-4848