Soft and yeasty, with an open personality that emphasizes mature, biscuity aromas along with dried apricot. Flavors of orange, papaya and melon are subtle rather than live-wire, while the finish is stylish. ——M.S.(12/15/2004)—— 88

Assertive toasty, yeasty aromas give way to peach and hints of game, followed on the palate by meaty flavors alongside hints of anise and stone fruits. It’s rich enough to handle red meat at the table, finishing long and intense.——J.C.(12/31/2003)—— 88