The 2006 Brut emerges from the glass with ripe pears, apples, flowers and minerals in a tightly wound, focused style. This shows superb energy in a mineral-driven style that is undeniably appealing. This is Lot: L10336D0103HCKSY, disgorged Fall 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016 Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

Ca’ del Bosco’s 2003 Brut offers up rich hazelnuts, brioche and dried apricots in a honeyed, generous style. The wine reveals terrific balance and harmony in an extroverted yet nicely balanced style. Warm toasty notes add complexity on the finish. The 2003 Brut is 50% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Blanc and 30% Pinot Noir. This is Lot. N. L08023-01, disgorged winter 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

The 1999 Franciacorta Cuvee Brut is a good introduction to the house style in its balanced presentation of fresh, yeasty aromas, ripe white and citric fruits, and the crispness and energy of its mouth-cleaning flow. Maurizio Zanella, the founder of Ca’ de Bosco, has won a large group of admirers for what he has accomplished over the past quarter of a century, but has also attracted a certain number of detractors who object to what they consider his excessive flamboyance and vaulting ambition. I am an unambiguous member of the first party, and consider his sparkling wines the finest expression of what Italy can do in this field, worthy competitors to fine French Champagne.

Ca’ del Bosco’s NV Franciacorta Brut reveals a pretty expression of flowers, smoke, minerals and peaches with notable softness on the palate and a long, finessed finish. It is a great introduction to the wines of Franciacorta. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Ca’ del Bosco is one of Franciacorta’s most important estates. Proprietor Maurizio Zanella makes a wide range of sleek, internationally styled wines.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900