What a beauty. The Tenuta di Capezzana 2012 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle) inches forth from the tiny bottle slowly and ultimately reveals a spectacular color that is orange, copper and almost green at the same time. I tasted bottle number 962 of a precious 4,968 produced. This Vin Santo puts on a real show thanks to its rich viscosity that slides, shifts and glistens in the glass. There are many aromas to describe, and it is hard to do this wine justice given how quickly they shift and change. There is honey, brown sugar, dried herb, forest mushroom, caramel and tilled earth. I even got a hint of rubber boot. This is a work of art and a clear passion project. Assigning a numerical score to an aspirational wine like this somehow misses the point, but here goes nothing.

The 2011 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (packaged in a 375-millilter bottle) is a blend of 90% Trebbiano and 10% San Colombano, another name for the white grape Verdea. I tasted bottle number 3,614 of only 5,264 bottles produced. This is a beautiful and seemingly indestructible dessert wine that offers intense tones of dried apricot, honey and toasted nut. The grapes are air-dried for up to six months, and the wine ages in traditional 100-liter oak barrels called caratelli for up to six years. Those pretty nutty flavors you get on the finish come directly from the aging process.

The 2010 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva (375 milliliters) pours from the bottle in thick, glycerin-rich waves. This gorgeous wine shows a polished copper color with subtle ruby highlights. The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous with thick layers of caramel, honey, toasted almond and candied fruit. This is a blend of 90% Trebbiano and 10% San Colombano. This Vin Santo ages in chestnut wood caratelli for six careful years. The mouthfeel is explosive with sweetness and beautiful intensity. Only 5,540 precious bottles were made.

The 2003 Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva is an understated, mid-weight dessert wine redolent of dried figs, candied orange?peel and sweet baking spices. Subtle oxidative overtones typical of Vin Santo are woven throughout as this pretty and well-balanced wine opens up in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200