Made in a richer, more substantial style, the rocking good 2012 Saint Joseph Le Lombard gives up classic Marsanne notes of mineral, citrus blossom, tangerine and brioche. Medium-bodied, beautifully fresh and elegant, with great, yet integrated, acidity, it gains steam in the glass and delivers loads of fruit without ever seeming heavy. Enjoy it over the coming couple of years. Yves releases two cuvees from Cornas, and I found the quality consistent in 2012, yet preferred the Vires release by a fair margin in 2011. There are three Saint Joseph cuvees in red: the Les Pierres Seches, which comes from sand and granite soils around the town of Chavanay; the L'Amarybelle, which comes from high density, terraced plantings of older vines; and lastly, the Les Serines, which comes from the oldest vines of the estate and is the only cuvee to see new oak. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The very good 1999 St.-Joseph Cuvee Prestige Le Lombard is a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, aged in 50% new and 50% used barrels. It reveals a honeyed, wood smoke, pear, and grapefruit-scented bouquet, medium body, good acidity, and an elegant, clean finish. It should drink well for 2-3 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990