Moreau's 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is broader and more overtly sun-kissed, wafting from the glass with aromas of delicately honeyed citrus fruit, orange blossom and pastry cream. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and expansive, with lively acids and a long finish. Open and enveloping, it's a charming expression of Vaillons.

The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons, which is matured exactly the same way as the Fourneaux, has a crisp chalk dust and brioche scented bouquet that is well defined and conveys admirable mineralité. The palate is fresh and crisp with cooking apple, fresh pear and saline notes, respectable weight in the mouth with a brisk, granitic finish. This will do nicely, even if it is not the best Vaillons in 2014.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons comes from vines between 60 and 70 years old and is raised for 18 months in stainless steel with eight months on the lees. It has a fruit-forward bouquet with hints of tangerine and dried mango developing in the glass, whereas I would have preferred more mineral tones. The palate is rounded on the entry with moderate acidity, a little softness creeping in toward the finish that just loses the tension that I was hoping for. It is commercially sound, but missing the intellectual dimension and terroir expression.