Tasted from bottle, 2016 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses offers up pretty notes of plum and cherry fruit mingled with notions of Indian spices and loamy soil. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied and expansive on the attack, but it's a little compact and austere on the back end, marred by tannic asperity.

The 2012 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses comes from a single block of 5.5 hectares, the largest single holding owned by Chanson. There is a sense of vitality and exuberance on the nose with plush black cherry and cassis fruit that is very engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gentle grip but plenty of ripe blackberry and raspberry toward the finish. This has more charm than the Santenay and would be my pick between the two. Drink now-2022. Importer: Terlato International and Mentzendorff (UK)

The 2005 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Vergelesses smells brightly of sour cherry , cherry pit, and smoked meats. Decidedly saline and savory in the mouth, with bitter-sweet, cherry-dominated flavors, this finishes with an interesting juxtaposition of bracing salinity and a slightly hard stoniness. I would be tempted to enjoy this now for its vivacious fruit, but two or three years may fill out the finish and add some depth. Also recommended: 2005 Beaune Teurons (85). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900