Toasty minerals make up the aromatic profile of the 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres. Medium-bodied, fresh, and well-focused, it reveals copious quantities of minerals, spices, and white fruits in its satin-textured, harmonious character. Projected maturity: now-2011. Importers: Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; Tel. (800) 525-9699; Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Delicate scents of flowers emanate from the 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres. A tightly wound, crystalline wine, it is light-bodied, and reveals lemon-infused mineral flavors. It should be consumed over the next 2 years. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949; and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699

The mineral and floral-scented 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres has lemon, vanilla, apple, white flower, and toast flavors. Light to medium-bodied and lace-like, this silky-textured wine's long finish reveals loads of spiced oak. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

Aromatically, the Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres is reminiscent of a bouquet of freshly cut flowers. This mouth-coating and full-bodied offering regales with its expansiveness, great richness, as well as its pear, peach, and new oak-laced flavors. Its long and precise finish reveals intricate mineral and stone nuances. Projected maturity: 2000-2006. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

An elegant wine, the Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres doesn't attain the qualitative level of the Referts. In both the nose and mouth, it displays good minerality and floral components, and has fine length, but it lacks the burst of fruit displayed by the former wine. Hold it for 6 years and enjoy it over the subsequent 6+. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Trebuchet believes young white wines, especially his, deserve to be afforded the same right to breathe as red wines before being consumed. He recommends decanting them a half hour or more before they are served. Olivier Humbrecht of the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace shares a similar belief, convincing me a number of years ago of the beneficial characteristics breathing can add to his wines. The goal of this firm is to produce firm, elegant wines that are made for the long haul. These are not big leesy, flamboyant wines because Jean Chartron and Louis Trebuchet do not believe that style of white will age well. Trebuchet stated that "overly stirring the lees covers a wine's finesse and typicity more than oak ever could." Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.