The 2010 Ateo, a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is striking in this great vintage. Firm tannins support expressive dark fruit, wild flowers, mint, sage and blackberries. Although a wine more of region than variety, the 2010 impresses for its vibrant, structured personality and impeccable class. A big, full-throttle finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2022. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini suffered the same fate as many of his colleagues in 2008, which is to say, significant crop loss due to hail in both April and August. Still, this is a solid set of new releases. Bianchini has decided to wait one more year before releasing his flagship Brunello Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d’Oro. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530 4021

The 2008 Ateo (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals gorgeous dark red fruit, herbs, cassis, cedar and sweet spices. This is a fairly compact Ateo – not surprising considering the vintage – yet it shows plenty of concentration, depth and sheer muscle. It is a terrific effort in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

The estate’s 2007 Ateo is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot now that the Sangiovese has been eliminated from the blend. Although the wine is made from international varieties here those grapes speak with a distinctly Tuscan accent. Plummy dark fruit leads to sweet herbs, spices, earthiness and minerals as this rich, deep wine opens up in the glass. This is one of the few 2007s that will actually benefit from another year or so in bottle. It is gorgeous stuff! Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has turned out a gorgeous set of wines. In 2005 Bianchini elected to forgo his top Brunello, Pianrosso, and bottle just his straight Brunello, which has all of the best fruit he was able to bring in that year. The result speaks for itself. I also tasted a number of Brunellos in cask from vintages 2006 through 2008 that appear quite promising. As good as the Brunellos are, value-conscious readers will want to pay special attention to Ciacci’s entry-level wines, which are just as noteworthy. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

This is a beautiful red blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Montalcino subzone of Sant’Antimo (where super Tuscan wines are made) with light mineral dustings that show delicately over a solid core of black fruit and exotic spice. The mouthfeel is bright and polished.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 90