Contino gives its single-vineyard Graciano all that it can, and still the wine, despite its deep purple color, is tight as a drum. There’s juniper and blueberry on the nose, and then tangy blackberry flavors with an herbal slant. As varietal Graciano goes, this is nicely done. But it’s up to you to decide if varietal Graciano is worth $147 a pop.——M.S.(6/1/2009)—— 87

Varietal Graciano will never fit into the mold of “tried and true,” but this 2004 from top-level producer Contino shows the grape in its most positive light. The nose is natural, with hints of cola and ripe berries. The feel is brawny and intense, with semi-searing acids offset by ripe tannins. Finishes well, with a cleansing wave of red fruit and citrusy flavors. More of a novelty than anything, but a fine wine in and of itself.——M.S.(8/1/2008)—— 91

Although this wine has been favorably reviewed in the past, this vintage seems jammy and ponderous. The color is blinding and the bouquet reduced and jammy. The palate pours on monotonous boysenberry and blackberry, while the finish is granular. A specialty wine (only 250 cases made) that proves why Graciano is rarely made by itself. ——M.S.(11/1/2006)—— 84

Perfumed and polished, with tar and black-cherry aromas. Not often do you see varietal Graciano; usually it’s a component supporting Tempranillo. But here it offers boysenberry flavors and a linear structure. Sturdy, a bit tangy, and different. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. ——M.S.(8/1/2005)—— 89