Unfortunately the 2006 Chardonnay Riserva della Famiglia is off the mark. There isn’t enough density to stand up to the oak. This is a rare miss in an otherwise strong lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; Tel. (707) 256-2700

The estate’s 2004 Chardonnay Riserva della Famiglia is a heavy, full-bodied offering dominated by French oak, creme caramel and butterscotch, with relatively little fruit or verve. Quite frankly, it’s hard to understand the rationale for making a wine like this in Piedmont. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Coppo – one of Piedmont’s historic properties – makes a wide range of wines but they seem to do best when they kept things simple, as some of the wines remain excessively oaked and heavy.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1999 Chardonnay Riserva della Famiglia, a lovely bright gold, is, in fact, sweet and ripe on the nose with expressive peach, apricot, and creme anglaise vanilla notes, full on the palate, but with balanced mineral notes to give freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2006. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620