The outstanding Pouilly-Fuisse En Buland Vieilles Vignes Reserve (only 50 cases produced) has toasted oak touches intermingled with strong mineral aromas. This wine explodes on the palate with incredibly concentrated and awesomely precise flavors of smoke, minerals, currants. It is a highly-expressive, medium-to-full-bodied, oily-textured and profound wine. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2004+. Daniel Barraud, a hard-working, intelligent and dedicated man, is one of the Maconnais' finest producers. He believes that his 1996s are "more powerful, both in acidity and ripeness" than his '95s and are "magnificently precise and clean." I was blown away by Barraud's '95s (reviewed in issue #110), finding both his En Buland (91) and La Verchere (90+) to be outstanding, but his 1996s are even better. Moreover, these wines are excellent values.Barraud is not a believer in batonnage; his wines obtain their richness from late harvests and extended lees contact in barrel (as opposed to the traditional Maconnais vats). He neither fines nor filters his offerings.Importer: "Reserve" wines are imported exclusively by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various importers including Skurnik in NY.

The estate's top wine is the rarest, as only 50 cases were produced. Made from 60-70 year old vines, the Pouilly-Fuisse En Buland Vieilles Vignes Reserve displays an enticing surmaturite (over-ripeness) in the nose, and an intense and complex mouth of lemons, minerals, flint and toasty roasted fruit. A thick textured wine, this beauty has excellent length and should be drunk between its release and 2005.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29.As readers study my report, I hope they notice the number of wines from highly acclaimed villages and vineyards that don't merit the scores the three delicious wines from this domaine received. After harvesting extremely ripe grapes, Daniel Barraud neither fines nor filters his wines and leaves them on their lees for 15 months. They are full-flavored blockbusters and will be considered steals when their prices are compared to those of other white burgundies.Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910.