Limited in production is the stunningly rich, opulent 2005 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine blanc. This is pure honeysuckle, nectarine, and mango notes in a full-bodied, lusciously rich style that is more akin to white Hermitage than St.-Joseph. It is best drunk in its first 3-4 years of life. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

The 2004 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine blanc is potentially outstanding, but only limited quantities are produced. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Delas Freres’ white wine cuvees have improved immensely under the administration of Jacques Granges. Reminiscent of a top Alsatian or German Riesling, the 2003 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine blanc reveals that classic gout du petrol characteristic along with deep, full-bodied flavors, wonderful intensity, and a long finish. Given its higher than normal alcohol and lower than usual acidity, I would opt for drinking it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000