The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières is performing well, delivering scents of pear, mandarin oil, crisp white peach and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, it's mineral and saline, with a touch more concentration and cut than the more open-knit Derrière Chez Edouard.

The 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières lost half of its crop due to frost damage. It has a generous, feisty, menthol-tinged bouquet that comes racing out of the blocks like a dog let off its lead. The palate is powerful and concentrated, almost like a Condrieu in style, very spicy with a viscous finish. It lacks typicité...but it's fun. I would drink this in its youth.

The 2015 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières felt a little simple on the nose when I encountered it from barrel and did not quite convey the complexity shown by Pierre-Yves Colin's example from the vineyard that I tasted on the same morning. The palate is balanced with tropical notes of guava and passion fruit complementing the citrus fruit, but I would be seeking more bite and race on the finish here. Drink over the next four or five years.

The 2014 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières is a new addition to the domaine, just 0.1-hectares of 30-year-old vine that equates to just two barrels. Still, better than nothing! It has a very attractive, stony bouquet that you might mistake for a Chablis. The palate does not quite match the promise of the nose. Nicely balanced, if not quite delivering the complexity that the aromatics deserve, yet I am sure there is better to come from this vineyard in the hands of Antoine Jobard.