The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gains is showing well in bottle, revealing aromas of pear, waxy citrus rind, oatmeal and dried white flowers that are framed by a light touch of reduction and hints of almond paste. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy, it's more voluminous and enveloping than the Trézin that preceded it in our tasting, with a fleshy core of fruit and racy balancing acids.

The 2016 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Champs Gain has a tightly wound, focused, malic bouquet with scents of dewy green apples and a touch of blackcurrant leaf. I like the precision here, though it is never a powerful set of aromatics. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry, with green apples continued from the nose, Cornice pear and a touch of dandelion, fanning out wonderfully on the finish that finally delivers the horsepower. Excellent. As good as the 2014.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Champs Gains required some coaxing from the glass, hints of walnut and smoke all nicely defined and gaining intensity. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry with crisp acidity, a hint of bitter lemon and orange rind, leading to a well-defined and persistent finish. Very fine, this one of the better wines from Antoine Jobard this year.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Champs Gains offers more fruité than the Le Trezin: green apples and fresh pear, lively and giving. The palate is well balanced with touches of tropical fruit, dried pineapple and passion fruit, good depth and rounded in texture. It might not deliver the nervosité of the 2013, but it is so generous that it will be difficult to resist. This is a classy, unpretentious Puligny in the making.