The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Village opens in the glass with notes of white peach, citrus oil, spring blossom, pastry cream and struck match. Medium to full-bodied and fleshy but tightly wound, it's lively and mineral, concluding with a chalky finish.

Aromas of ripe citrus fruit, vanilla pod and white flowers introduce the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural wine that's fine-boned and elegant, with good tension, succulent acids and a giving profile, concluding with a long, pure finish.

The 2016 Puligny Montrachet Village was not affected by frost at all. Strangely, I actually prefer the Chassagne-Montrachet Village on the nose, which was touched by frost. This just feels rather austere and aloof at the moment. The palate is better with crisp acidity, fine tension and an almost clinical, focused finish. Maybe what it just misses is some personality or character, and that may well develop with one or two years in bottle.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet Village is instantly more expressive on the nose compared to the Chassagne-Montrachet with bright Granny Smith apples, cold limestone and even a surprising hint of Turkish Delight adding a soup?on of exoticism. The palate is very well balanced with an attractive sense of airiness. This is very well defined with a tangy touch of ginger towards the saline finish that lingers long on the aftertaste. Like the Santenay Blanc, this is a village cru punching well above its weight and as a result, it comes highly recommended.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from 14 parcels and had a more introspective, teritary nose than the Meursault Clos du Cromin. The palate is bright and vivacious on the entry with hints of peach and pear, good acidity but perhaps just lacking the same substance on the finish compared to the domaine's other 2014s. Let's see how this is in bottle.