The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Véroilles comes from the village cru portion of the vineyard. To be frank, I found this wanting on the nose, missing some fruité and intensity, a bit...flaccid. The palate is better with fresh, crisp, slightly angular cherry fruit but it cuts away too swiftly on the finish. There are much better wines by Bruno Clair in 2015, or otherwise head for Ghislaine-Barthord's own premier cru take on the vineyard.

The 2014 Chambolle Musigny les Véroilles, from vines planted in 1990 but occupying the Village Cru of the vineyard (Ghislaine Barthod hogging the Premier Cru), has a rather conservative bouquet; it is introspective at first but unfolding in the glass with light blackberry and cranberry leaf aromas. The palate is well balanced with pretty strawberry and Morello notes on the entry. There is moderate complexity locked in and it may be conservative in the context of Chambolle, yet there is plenty of freshness on the finish.

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles is all finesse and delicacy. Layers of sweet red fruit, freshly cut flowers and spices are some of the notes that flesh out in this silky, impeccably textured Chambolle. A polished, long finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This is a fabulous set of wines from Bruno Clair and his long-time oenologist Philippe Brun. The harvest started on September 25. Yields were 22-30 hectoliters per hectare, which is to say a good 10% less than 2003, a torrid vintage marked by tiny yields. Clair describes the fruit as healthy, with no botrytis and soft tannins from the late harvest. The 2010s were 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 25% for the villages to 50% for the Grand Crus, except for the Marsannays, which saw very little new oak.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151

Clair’s 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles caresses the palate with layers of soft yet intensely perfumed fruit. This shows lovely inner fragrance, superb balance and a soft, engaging personality. It will be virtually impossible to resist in its youth. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This is a beautiful set of wines from Bruno Clair. Every wine I tasted with Clair’s longtime oenologist Philippe Brun was gorgeous from top to bottom. While the top 2009s are certainly superb, the real jewels here are the village level wines which appear to be among the great success stories of the 2009 vintage. I tasted all of the wines from barrel, except the Marsannay and Marsannay Les Vaudanelles, both of which were bottled before the 2010 harvest. In 2009 Clair began harvesting on September 15 and ended on the 23rd. I also tasted a handful of 2008s, from a much later harvest that stretched into October. The handful of wines I tasted from that vintage are equally impressive, and equally worth your time.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151