A brilliant young wine, Coche's 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières offers up scents of crisp green pear, citrus oil, white flowers, fresh ginger, hazelnuts and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, taut and chiseled, with a racy spine of acidity, chalky structuring extract and a long, pungently mineral, nutmeg-inflected finish, it won't see the light of day for several years (the domaine still hasn't released the 2017), but what pleasures await those who are ultimately able to secure a few bottles!

Unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus oil, crisp Anjou pear, mandarin orange, pastry cream and wet stones, the 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with huge reserves of concentration and chalky structuring extract. Tightly coiled, chiseled and incisive, it concludes with a penetrating, electric finish.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is a magical wine in the making, its youthfully reserved bouquet mingling aromas of citrus oil and wet stones with notions of warm bread and toasted sesame. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with a deep and tight-knit core that's framed by racy acids and an abundance of chalky structuring dry extract, concluding with a long, searingly mineral finish. This is an exquisite rendition of Meursault's greatest vineyard by its greatest exponent.

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is the most distinctive wine in the range, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crushed chalk, tart green apple, dried white flowers and struck flint. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly satiny and searingly intense, with tangy acids, huge concentration and the pronouncedly mineral, stony signature that always seems to mark out this bottling. Along with Genevrières, Coche's parcel in Perrières was largely spared by the 2016 frosts. Given its utterly classic profile, a dozen years' patience is advised.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is extraordinary, and one of the very finest white Burgundies of the vintage, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, Anjou pear, crushed chalk, almond paste and subtle sesame oil, elegantly framed by a judicious application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, immensely concentrated and persistent, with satiny structuring extract, stunning mid-palate depth and a long, unerringly precise finish. While readers will not find the reductive signature that characterized Coche-Dury's wines of yesteryear, the wine's completeness, purity and incredible intensity leave little room for argument about its quality. This is a superb Perrières that proves that Rapha?l Coche will be more than able to adapt to the warmer, riper vintages that have been coming thick and fast this decade.