The 2015 Musigny Grand Cru is matured in two new barrels. It has a very intense bouquet with dark cherries, Griottes, cold stone and blood orange notes that are extremely well defined and fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, very saline so that the front of the tongue tingles with pleasure, but there is enormous structure on the back palate, its weight affirming that this is a long-term proposition that will need 8-10 years in bottle. This is a majestic Musigny.

The 2014 Musigny Grand Cru consists of two barrels this year, both new oak. It has a broody bouquet at first that gently opens up with small black cherries, wilted violets and a touch of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, not soft in the mouth but it feels round and fluid. I wonder if it just needs a little more tannic backbone on the finish here, perhaps a little more tension. I think some whole bunch might have added something to this Musigny. Let's see how it performs in bottle.

The 2013 Musigny Grand Cru, which as usual comprises just two barrels this year, has an endearing boysenberry, raspberry preserve and forest-floor-scented nose (also a little reduction.) The palate is underpinned by fine tannins and a keen line of acidity, gradually building to a harmonious finish whereby the oak is deftly interwoven. This is an assured, elegant Musigny in the making, not dissimilar in style to the Musigny from Domaine de la Vougeraie.

The 2012 Musigny Grand Cru is limited to one 350-litre barrel this year. It has a sensational bouquet that is extremely pure and opulent, though focused and mineral-driven. Of all the Musigny barrel samples I have encountered, this is the most decadent. The palate is very well balanced, very intense in the mouth with blackcurrant pastille, cassis, raspberry and orange zest. Silky smooth in texture, it feels almost opaque on the finish, such is the density. This is a sumptuous Musigny packed with pleasure. This domaine must possess one of the most enviable portfolios in the Cote de Nuits, with several grand crus to their name scattered across 11.5-hectares of prime vineyard. So I guess one must ask the question why Drouhin-Laroze is not better known? I suppose you could argue that in the past, the wines had an air of commerciality about them, wines that were commendable and enjoyable, yet rarely approached the profundity of say Rousseau or Bachelet. Their intrinsic quality was not in doubt. The trouble is that when you have such a roll call of iconic grand crus to your name, the bar is simply raised. Personally, I have found much pleasure in previous vintages that always seem to show well in barrel. I have always found winemaker Philippe Drouhin to be a conscientious vigneron, usually with his wife Christine by his side, either in the office or pouring wines at tastings. And there is now a gradual changing over to the sixth generation as their son Nicolas and daughter Caroline, gain more involvement in the running of the estate that now includes a negociant arm overseen by Caroline. Tasting through their 2012s, there does remain a slight “heaviness” to the wines that you could align with say, Bernard Dugat, and that does not mean they are inherently inferior – just that it is a perceptible leitmotif that means they rarely contain the finesse or effortlessness of those aforementioned growers. I always come away thinking if that if they just tweaked their practices a little, they could suddenly see their wines capture that sense of magic – perhaps pick a little earlier, extract less and moderate the level of new wood that has always made an impression e.g. reconsider using 100% new oak for all the grand crus. This is an estate to watch. They have always quietly gone about creating very good wines, but it would not take much with those grand crus to see them suddenly elevated to the top league. Importer: available through Diva Beaune in the United States, also Atherton Wine Imports (www.awiwine.com) in California and through Fields, Morris & Verdin in the UK.