The "regular" bottling of Duroché's 2020 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is a great wine in its own right, offering up notes of dark berries, plums, smoked meats, sweet soil tones, black truffle and licorice. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's broad and perfumed, with a concentrated core of fruit, velvety tannins and a long, resonant finish.

More reserved, the 2019 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru unwinds in the glass to reveal scents of sweet berries, plums, licorice, warm spices, rose petals and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, seamless and perfumed, it's deep and layered, with a concentrated core of fruit that's framed by velvety tannins and lively acids. It will reward patience, though its structural elegance and the inherent charm of the vintage mean that it's far from forbidding right now.

Like the Estournelles Saint-Jacques, Duroché's 2018 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru was a touch reduced on opening, but it opened up rapidly after a quick decant, unwinding to reveal a rich, carnal bouquet of dark berry fruit, smoked meats, black truffle, baking chocolate, plums and nori. Full-bodied, layered and elegantly muscular, it's deep and concentrated, with considerable reserves of fruit and structure. This will require the most patience of any wine in the portfolio, but it also offers the greatest potential rewards.

The 2017 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is the most brooding of Duroché's wines, wafting from the glass with a rich bouquet of mulberries, plums and wild berries, mingled with smoked meats, incense, spices and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a rich and layered core, succulent acids and a long, intensely sapid finish.