The candle wax and floral-scented 1999 Meursault Chevalieres is light to medium-bodied, tightly wound, and detailed. This focused, well-made, spice and mineral-flavored wine should be at its best if consumed between 2001 and 2006. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.

The Meursault Chevalieres, produced from 38 year old vines, exhibits deep aromas of minerals and almonds, and on the palate this is a rich, medium-bodied, mouth-coating, strident, and toasty wine. Structured and backward, this wine will require cellaring before blossoming. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2006.The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.Coche believes in being both the last to harvest and the last to bottle, two philosophies that paid dividends in 1996. "The Coches prune short," was the proud reply to my question about yields. The wines were subjected to a regular batonnage every 8 days until January, and then once a month.Overall, these offerings have excellent richness and depth as well as vibrant and piercing acidity. If patiently cellared, I am convinced these beauties will blossom into delicious, complex, and highly nuanced wines.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.