The 1999 Meursault Charmes has a milk, spice, and mineral-scented nose. Medium to full-bodied, rich, and broad, it has excellent depth to its juicy, fresh, and flavorful character. Flowers, minerals, and poached pears can be found throughout this beauty's personality and long, smooth finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.

Note: This is a special cuvees of Domaine Coche-Bizouard's wines fashioned exclusively for their American importer. It was vinified and aged in one year old oak barrels. This estate's wines sold outside the United States are blends of wines made in new oak and older cooperage.Demure, floral aromas are found in the nose of the 1998 Meursault Charmes. This medium-bodied wine exhibits good depth and purity to its plump, satin-textured character. Flavors of hazelnuts infused with tangy lemon are found throughout its personality. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.

My favorite 1996 from Domaine Coche-Bizouard is the outstanding Meursault Charmes. Elegant aromas of white flowers and delicately laced minerals are followed by a super-deep, refined, ripe, bright, concentrated, complex, and medium-to-full-bodied character. Layers of liquid minerals and citrus zests can be found in this marvelous offering's flavor profile and also in its admirably long finish. Projected maturity: 2003-2008.The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.Coche believes in being both the last to harvest and the last to bottle, two philosophies that paid dividends in 1996. "The Coches prune short," was the proud reply to my question about yields. The wines were subjected to a regular batonnage every 8 days until January, and then once a month.Overall, these offerings have excellent richness and depth as well as vibrant and piercing acidity. If patiently cellared, I am convinced these beauties will blossom into delicious, complex, and highly nuanced wines.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.