The 1990 Volnay-Clos des Chenes is a more elegant, finesse-styled wine than the sensational Pommard-Les Chaponnieres, with a fragrant, floral, berry-scented nose, soft, satiny textured flavors, and a graceful, impeccably well-balanced finish that contains no hard edges. Because of its ripeness and juicy, succulent Pinot fruit, it can be drunk now, but it promises to take on additional complexity with another 3-4 years of cellaring, and should keep for 10-12 years. While most of the attention is focused on Faiveley's extensive premier cru and grand cru offerings from the Cote de Nuits, this firm does a superlative job in the Cote Chalonnais and the Cote de Beaune. The 1990s merit considerable interest, not only for their quality, but also for the price/quality rapport several of them offer. Importers: Henry Cavalier Selections, Boulder, CO and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA.

Faiveley's Volnay-Clos des Chenes is an excellent Premier Cru from the Cote de Beaune. This unfiltered red burgundy is even richer, fuller, and deeper colored than the excellent Beaune Les Champs Pimonts. It has less up-front charm and precociousness than the Beaune yet more tannin, muscle, and body. It should last until the turn of the century.