Villard's impressive red wine portfolio includes excellent 1996s and 1995s. Villard demonstrates a steady hand with Cote Rotie, although I can't say the 1995 and 1996 are significantly better than his exquisite St.-Joseph. The 1996 Cote Rotie was closed and reticent when I tasted it in July. Toasty oak vies with roasted herbs and black currants in the wine's aromatics and flavors. After twenty minutes in the glass, the wine opens to reveal a medium-bodied, elegant, yet authoritatively-flavored Cote Rotie that will require 2-4 years of cellaring, and keep for 14-15 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

Villard's impressive red wine portfolio includes excellent 1996s and 1995s. Villard demonstrates a steady hand with Cote Rotie, although I can't say the 1995 and 1996 are significantly better than his exquisite St.-Joseph. The 1995 Cote Rotie is a softer, more accessible wine than the 1996, with loads of smoky, jammy berry fruit, licorice, and roasted olives in its aromatics. Meaty, black cherry, and cassis flavors are soft, velvety-textured, and medium to full-bodied. This excellent, mouthfilling, accessible Cote Rotie should drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949