The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières has turned out very nicely, offering up aromas of pear, lemon oil, wheat toast and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, it's stony and saline, with tangy acids and a long, chalky finish. As is so often the case with this climat, the site dominates the vintage.

Unwinding in the glass with aromas of white flowers, waxy citrus rind, green pear, fresh mint and nutmeg, the 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is medium to full-bodied, chalky and introverted, with terrific tension and structuring dry extract in this warm vintage, concluding with a long and mineral finish.

Boillot's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is superb, and one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crisp green apple, struck flint and smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, stony and tensile, with considerable depth, concentration and chewy dry extract. It's indelibly marked by the site that produced it.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru les Perrières did not quite deliver as much as the Meursault Charmes or Genevrières. It has a crisp floral bouquet with yellow flowers and wet pavement scents, more backward than the Genevrières. The palate is crisp and fresh with a keen line of acidity and a rather conservative, straitlaced, perhaps rather reticent finish. This was a rather perplexing showing.

Boillot’s 2011 Meursault Les Perrieres brings together the overt fruit of the Charmes and the equally intense minerality of the Genevrieres. The Charmes is quite big and broad-shouldered on the palate, with great power and intensity from start to finish. I especially like the way the aromas and flavors find an extra gear of focus on the pointed, nuanced finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Henri Boillot recently finished his move to a new modern cellar in Champ Lins, one of the industrial sections of Meursault. Boillot describes his 2011s as having a bit more richness and better balance of fruit and acidity than the 2010s. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Boillot seems to be one case where the 2011s have the potential to be better across the board than the 2010s. As is often the case here, the village wines are particularly strong. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052