Matured entirely in new oak, the 2013 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Chaboeufs delivers a payload of macerated dark cherries, blueberry and cassis on the nose that handles the new oak well. The palate is medium-bodied, a little softer and suppler than the Aux Boudots with a silky, tender finish. This might be earlier drinking than the other premier crus, although it will need to absorb that new oak in the meantime.

The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chaboeufs has a very well defined, slightly metallic bouquet that is vigorous and focused. The palate is very silky and more refined than the Les Boudots. Despite some reduction this seems to have more class and finesse, serving as a decent Nuits Saint Georges without the bells and whistles. My final visit of the day was to Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, just up the Route Nationale from Domaine de l’Arlot in Premeaux-Prissey. It took me a while to engineer the car into the courtyard since a man-eating hound refused to budge out of the way of the vehicle. It would probably not go down well with winemaker, Alain Meunier, had I run the mutt over. Alain’s father-in-law was Jean-Jacques Confuron, a quietly spoken gentleman who has done much to make this one of the most sought after domaines in Nuits Saint Georges. The domaine includes 8.5-hectares of vines in the Cote de Nuits that have been farmed organically since 1989, the portfolio crowned by a parcel in Romanee-Saint-Vivant, a thin but precious strip to the north of the climat, sandwiched between Alain Hudelot-Noellat and Lalou Bize-Leroy. Though usually most of the fruit is de-stemmed, Alain told me that this year the premier and grand crus include 20% whole clusters. The use of new oak here is quite pronounced relative to others: 30% for the village crus, between 40% and 50% for the premier crus and over 60% for the grand crus, but I did not find it excessive and it was beautifully knitted into the fabric of these 2012s, especially his sumptuous grand crus that should easily age over 20 or 30 years. I look forward to visiting once again - mindful of not running over the dog of course. Importer: J.A.O. Wine Importers, 1507 Hampton Hill Circle, McLean (VA) Tel 1 703 628 9615. Also available in UK at Enotria Winecellars Lts. and Ballantynes of Cowbridge.