From vines in two parcels of the original Charmes said to be nearly 130 years old, the Roty 2006 Charmes-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes offers bright, intensely penetrating ripe cherry shadowed in the nose by high-toned maraschino, almond extract, and Chartreuse-like floral and herbal distillate. Implosively concentrated, liqueur-like in fruit, and with formidable tannins, it finishes expansively and with a greater sense of textural polish than was evident in its initial assault on the palate. This needs time even to give one a clear idea of its personality, but almost certainly it is going to be a formidable and generous one. I would plan on re-visiting this in 3-4 years – were I, that is, lucky and wealthy enough to have some in my cellar. And try not to look back at the 2005 in comparison, as that sets an almost impossible standard even for these ancient vines and Roty's talent!Philippe Roty is among the many growers to assert that under-ripe fruit rather than rot was what really drove his 2006 selection process. "But, hail or no hail, I do a strict triage regardless; and besides" he notes with a laugh, "it hails every year in at least one part of Marsannay." He picked in a relative hurry the last week of September, because "as far as I'm concerned, above 13% potential alcohol you have surmaturite, and that's not good." Besides, like the Mugneret sisters and a considerable number of other top-notch growers, Roty favors routinely – if only slightly – chaptalizing his entire range to promote longer and, he believes, flavor- and texture-enhancing fermentation. (While I have mentioned in the text of my tasting notes those wines that are part of the personal domaine of Philippe Roty and bottled under his name, I have not reflected this in the naming of the wines, as the same label is used for those as for the Domaine Joseph Roty wines and they are all vinified and aged together by the same team.) Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

From vines said to have been planted in the 1880s, the Roty 2005 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes announces its distinction a foot away from the glass, with uncanny intensity and clarity of black fruit essences, along with ineffable mineral and animal suggestions. Tactile cinnamon spiciness, bitter-sweet herbs, and black cherry and black raspberry concentrate (fresh, yet with liqueur-like intensity, sweetness and viscosity) saturate the palate, and a dark and rising tide of mineral and carnal flavors meets the fruit and spice in a thunderous finish. There is mystery aplenty here, with the sex appeal well beneath the surface.Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Readers who buy the three grand crus will notice (by Roty's standards) a lack of color saturation. The finest wine Roty produced in 1993 is the Charmes-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes. It may prove to be outstanding with another 2-3 years of cellaring. The wine exhibits a medium to deep ruby color, a big, smoky, vanillin, rich berry-scented nose, medium body, fine extraction of fruit and concentration, moderate tannin, a vibrant personality, and a long, spicy finish. The tannin possesses considerable grip in the finish, but the wine's fruit should hold up to the structure. Cellar it for 4-5 years and drink it over the subsequent 10-12.Roty has enjoyed modest success in 1993, managing to avoid the harsh tannin and hollow mid-palates exhibited by many wines. Nevertheless, his 1993s are not of the same quality level as his 1990s and 1985s. They possess good concentration, but the colors are less intense than expected, and the extraction and intensity of flavor, while impressive, are not as great as in other top vintages. I recently had the 1985 Mazy-Chambertin and I do not see any of these 1993s approaching the levels of richness and complexity that wine exhibits.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173