The Roty’s 2005 Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire – from Pinot Noir planted “fifty meters from appellation Gevrey” but not even permitted to carry the normal Bourgogne appellation (there had been some Gamay , but they grafted it over) – offers aromas and flavors of fresh, sorbet-like black cherry and blackberry fruit with a generosity and skin- and pit-inflected palate persistence that more than make up for its relative simplicity of flavors. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.