Leave it to Lalou Bize-Leroy to produce some of the richest, most concentrated, and unctuous white burgundies anyone is ever going to taste. Lalou Bize-Leroy's 1989 Meursault-Les Narvaux may be the best example I have yet to taste from this domaine. The huge nose of smoke, hazelnuts, oranges and pineapples is breathtaking. In the mouth, there is spectacular concentration, with a honeyed texture, adequate acidity, and a whopping alcoholic, rich finish. Drink this blockbuster white burgundy over the next 10 years.Importer: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA.

The 1949 Meursault Les Narvaux is superb, offering up a lively bouquet of fresh apricot, marmalade, dried white flowers, vanilla pod and iodine. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, deep and concentrated, with delicate structure and a dry, chalky and coherent finish. There's a real link between this Narvaux and the Domaine d'Auvenay wines of the present—and perhaps that's no coincidence, as the Leroy family were already proprietors of vines in Narvaux when the Maison Leroy was founded in 1868.