A more than worthy follow-up to the profound 2018, Leroy's striking 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts unwinds in the glass with aromas of inky berry fruit, cassis, sweet spices, smoked duck, rich soil tones, orange oil and incense. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's seamless and multidimensional, with lively acids, velvety tannins and a long, penetrating finish. This is less demonstrative than the extroverted Br?lées, but it's even deeper and more incipiently complex.

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts is spectacular, offering up a deep and carnal bouquet of wild berries, smoked duck and plums mingled with hints of rose hip, warm spices and rich soil tones. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's seamless and multidimensional, its structural chassis of powdery tannins entirely cloaked in bright fruit. Concluding with a long, penetrating finish, this magical wine was harvested on September 8, 2018, and bottled in November 2019.

One of the highlights of the portfolio this year is the 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, a serious wine that unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis, rich soil tones, pencil lead and complex carnal nuances. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with formidable depth at the core, an ample chassis of fine structuring tannins and a long, resonant finish.

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts is just as stunning as the Br?lées, but more reserved and serious, unfurling in the glass with a less extravagant bouquet of cassis, plums, dark chocolate, grilled squab, subtle spices and rich soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with striking amplitude and dimension, displaying a deep, searingly concentrated core that's framed by fine, powdery tannins. And if the Beaux Monts' finish isn't as expansive as the Br?lées', it's even longer and more penetrating. What's clear is that although the domaine's two Vosne premier crus touch, the wines themselves could hardly be more distinct.

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts resents being awaken from its deep sleep, unwinding in the glass and shedding a touch of youthful reduction to reveal a deep bouquet of wild berries, smoked duck, exotic spices, orange rind, peonies and sweet soil tones. Deep, full-bodied and concentrated, it's serious and tightly wound, with striking intensity and length. As I predicted when I last reviewed it, it will require—and requite—patience.