The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, orange oil, fresh bread and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with fine concentration, tangy acids and a penetrating, mineral finish, it's worth seeking out.

Notes of peach, orange oil, nutmeg and white flowers preface the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes, a medium to full-bodied, layered and nicely concentrated wine with chalky structuring extract and tangy acids.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes offers up notes of green apple, pear, white flowers and clear honey, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural palate that's lively and precise. This hails from a parcel situated in a combe planted in 1985.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes mingles aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit with hints of nutmeg and marzipan in an attractive bouquet, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and generous palate that's turned out to be a bit richer and riper than I anticipated a year ago. Again, this is another wine that will drink well young.

The 2015 St Aubin 1er Cru les Combes was matured in 20% new oak, but unlike others it does not see any aging in foudres. It has a more strict and linear bouquet than its siblings, subtle notes of wet limestone and apple peel developing, a faint marine scent backing it up. The palate is subtle, tightly wound but very balanced, a more nuanced take on the vintage with a very harmonious, spice-tinged finish that is an absolute treat. Perhaps this is one I would be tempted to broach in its flush of youth, but it will age well.