Taut and incisive, the 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois mingles aromas of citrus oil and pear with hints of white flowers, fresh herbs and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, it's a fine-boned, mineral wine that concludes with a saline finish.

The 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois displays aromas of orange oil, pear, freshly baked bread and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, layered and bright, it marries ripe, sun-kissed fruit with tangy acids in a very vintage-typical mélange. As readers may remember, this derives from an easterly exposed site planted in 1982.

Mingling aromas of pear and fresh peach with hints of mirabelle plums and fresh pastry, Colin's 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois is medium to full-bodied, charming and expressive, with succulent acids underpinning an open-knit core of generous fruit. This hails from an easterly exposed site planted in 1982.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois reveals pretty aromas of pear, fresh peach, white flowers, blanched almonds and wet stones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with more tension and cut than the 2018 rendition. This is a very pretty, elegantly understated wine.

The 2016 St Aubin 1er Cru le Charmois has a touch of licorice on the nose that neatly complements the subtle notes of dried honey and beeswax. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, although unlike its fellow Saint-Aubins this vintage, it does not quite follow up the complexity of the aromatics in the mouth and it needs to develop more terroir expression on the finish. Not bad, but not the best this year.