No longer blended with the Chalumeaux into Matrot's erstwhile cuvée Quintessence, the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne unfurls with notes of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil and hazelnuts. It's medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive, with more mid-palate volume than the Chalumeaux and more acidity too, lending the wine a more reserved profile.