The lovely 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux wafts from the glass with an old-school nose of lemon oil, wet stones, iodine, mandarin and smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive palate, with brisk acids and a stony, saline finish. This is a bit more generous out of the blocks than some of Matrot's other 2016s, but it will still reward a few years' bottle age.