The 2019 Meursault Les Chevalières offers up aromas of orchard fruit, mint and hazelnuts framed by new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a ripe core of fruit, lively acids and a weightier, high-octane profile than is typical of this cuvée, it exhibits fine concentration but it's also a touch heavy. I suspect it will be best drunk young.

Aromas of citrus oil, crushed chalk and subtle hazelnut cream introduce the 217 Meursault Les Chevalières, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly glossy wine with all the cut and tension that typically distinguishes this lieu-dit, with excellent depth at the core and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with an intense finish.

The 2010 Meursault Les Chevalieres comes across as quite polished and refined in this vintage. Lemon, apricots and white flowers meld together in this feminine, gracious wine. This is a lovely showing from Matrot. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Thierry Matrot told me he thinks 2010 is one of the greatest vintages of the last 30 years. Yields came in around 20-25 hectoliters per hectare, which is tiny by any measure. Batonnage gives the Matrot wines quite a bit of textural richness when they are young, along with the impression they are built for serious aging, but in my experience the wines need to be enjoyed within a few years after release. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010 Meursault Perrieres for this article, although I hope to taste it soon. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2009 Meursault Chevalieres offers good up-front juiciness, but ultimately comes across as quite heavy and lacking the energy of the best wines here. This is a fairly straightforward effort. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802