The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Quintessence saw fully 40% new wood, and while that's a touch less than in previous years, it's one of the fleshier, richer wines in the range. Offering up aromas of almond, hazelnut, green apple and white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, generously textural and succulent. As usual, it's a blend of Chalumeaux and La Garenne.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet La Quintessence, a blend of 60% Chalumeaux and 40% La Garenne, is seamless, layered and very pretty. Ripe and expressive on the palate, the wine boasts terrific intensity in its citrus, yellow peach and mineral notes. The 40% new oak barrels have been very well integrated, still I feel the Quintessence could use another year or so to come together just a bit more. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Thierry Matrot told me he thinks 2010 is one of the greatest vintages of the last 30 years. Yields came in around 20-25 hectoliters per hectare, which is tiny by any measure. Batonnage gives the Matrot wines quite a bit of textural richness when they are young, along with the impression they are built for serious aging, but in my experience the wines need to be enjoyed within a few years after release. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010 Meursault Perrieres for this article, although I hope to taste it soon. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Quintessence is made from parcels in La Garenne and Chalumeaux. It is the biggest and richest of these 2009s from Matrot. A powerful core of fruit flows effortlessly to the round, textured finish. The 50% new barrels add considerable volume and sweet hints of spiciness on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Puligny Quintessance has a well-defined bouquet with fresh dewy green apples, dried apricot and a touch of almond that unfurls nicely in the glass. The palate is crisp on the entry with plenty of green apples, gooseberry and nettles flavors. There is good length, although the finish is missing just a little complexity for a Premier Cru. Tasted May 2013.