The 2020 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières opens in the glass with aromas of wild berries, black cherries and sweet spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it combines elevated ripeness with vibrant acids, concluding with a long, intensely mineral finish.

The 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières is similarly promising, mingling aromas of wild berries and cassis with notions of licorice, dark chocolate and spices. Medium to full-bodied, bright and chalky, with a tightly wound core, powdery tannins and a long, mineral finish, it's very true to type.

The 2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières was showing especially well, mingling aromas of cassis and dark chocolate with savory nuances of loamy soil and grilled squab in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's lively and precise, with terrific tension despite the richness and power of the vintage.

Aromas of cassis, plums, grilled squab and rich soil tones, elegantly framed by new wood, introduce the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières, a medium to full-bodied wine that's firmer and more tensile in profile, with a deep core of sappy fruit, structured around fine-grained, chalky tannins that assert themselves on the long finish. This was a little less put together than some of Chevillon's 2017s when I tasted it, but its excellent potential is impossible to miss.