Dark ruby-colored, the Pommard Les Chanlins boasts a lively nose of roses, sweet black cherries, and traces of underbrush. Its full-bodied personality is chewy-textured, mineral and blackberry-laced and somewhat backward for a 1996. This intensely concentrated and well-balanced wine may merit a higher rating when it reaches its peak between 2002 and 2005. The score, on a range and in parentheses, indicates that the wine was tasted from barrel.Vincent Girardin's 1996s are generally fresher and more supple than his 1995s, but are not as concentrated or structured. Since he personally prefers softer styled wines, Girardin prefers the 1996 vintage. My feeling is that many of his 1995s will develop better over time than these delicious mid-term drinking wine.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802

Produced from 47 year old vines in a vineyard bordering the Volnay appellation, the dark ruby-colored Pommard Les Chanlins Vieilles Vignes offers elegant aromas of fragrant roses and violets in addition to sweet strawberries and blackberries. This delectable beauty has a full-bodied, exotic, viscous, succulent and sultry personality jam-packed with super-concentrated raspberries, cherries, plums and flowers. It possesses a formidably long and lush finish with supple tannin. Projected maturity: 2000-2006. I was absolutely blown away by the quality of Vincent Girardin's red Cote de Beaunes at my April tasting in Washington. Whereas there is always an element of doubt concerning the end product when tasting out of barrel, what I saw from Girardin was already bottled and in retail stores throughout the US (all of them were tasted with the American importer and many were later re-tasted blind with other 95 Burgundies). These are superlative red burgundies with a superb rapport in quality and price.This estate's wines exhibit superb ripeness, outstanding balance, beautiful purity of fruit, extraordinarily well-integrated oak and tannin. In the top cuvees there is unsurpassed length. I know of no other producer/negociant in Burgundy that can deliver as broad a range of outstanding wines at such reasonable prices. Furthermore, Girardin, like Bernard Dugat in Gevrey-Chambertin, has worked hard to improve the quality of his wines. To top it all off, we can look forward to many more years of sublime wines from this estate/negociant as Girardin and his wife, Veronique, are quite young.If you love Burgundian reds, run, don't walk, to your wine merchant and purchase these dazzling wines.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.