Mingling aromas of citrus zest and lemon pith with notes of white flowers and crushed rocks, the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with succulent acids, chalky structure and a long, saline finish. It has turned out nicely.

Aromas of white currants, pear, dried white flowers and wheat toast introduce the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping wine underpinned by racy acids, concluding with promising back-end grip. Germain tells me that this cuvée is purchased as must and comes from 60-year-old vines that are farmed according to "lutte raisonnée."

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts wafts from the glass with lovely aromas of ripe lemons, crisp orchard fruit, blanched almonds and pastry cream, delicately framed by oak vanillin. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with a broad, textural attack, superb concentration and tangy acids, concluding with a long, penetrating and precise finish. Intense and incisive, this is one of Eric Germain's finest 2016 whites.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Girardin's 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts has a fresh and vibrant bouquet with wonderfully delineated cold stone and Granny Smith apple scents, just a faint oiliness present, not unlike Thai fish oil. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a fine line of acidity. There was superb brightness and energy conveyed by this Puligny, and it just sings on the shimmering finish. This is a Les Referts with great potential.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Referts from Vincent Girardin is showing a little SO2 on the nose, gentle at first, with scents of lemon curd and bruised apple emerging from the sulphur haze. The palate is fresh on the entry with a keen thread of acidity. It is not a complex Puligny-Montrachet, quite malic in style with green apple and citrus fruit lining the straight-laced, slightly oaky finish. Not bad - but it is not the best les Referts out there.