The tight, restrained 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets (white) displays stones and chalk in its aromatics and flavors. Light-bodied, it is a constricted wine that, while appealing due to its freshness, focus, and verve, lacks flesh. Drink it over the next 3 years.

Toasted pears, apples, cloves, and other assorted spices make up the aromatic profile of the medium-bodied, rich 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets. This wide, complex, satin-textured wine is filled with buttered white fruits whose effects linger in its long, detailed finish. Projected maturity: now-2010. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.

Revealing aromas of freshly cut flowers, the Puligny Montrachet Le Cailleret blossoms on the palate with rich, sweet, toasted fruits, and touches of fresh earth. It is extremely well made, exhibiting power, delineation, length, and concentration. This full-bodied wine should age well for 10+ years. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel (802) 875-2139. Note: Vincent Girardin sells wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars (Eric Solomon, tel (212) 924-4949).