I haven’t always been a huge fan of the Langhe La Villa (60% Barbera and 40% Nebbiolo) but the 2005 is one of those rare vintages where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Dark cherries, plums, flowers and sweet licorice all flow from this supple, beautifully proportioned wine. Fine, elegant tannins round out the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. With his characteristic modesty Elio Altare told me 2005 was not a great vintage for him. “The harvest had to be timed perfectly, if we had waited just a few more hours the fruit would have been over-ripe,” says Altare. “2004, on the other hand was perfect. We were able to do several passes in the vineyards, picking each bunch at the optimal level of ripeness. In the cellar we did an absolute minimum of racking. The wines literally made themselves.”A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411