The 2010 Privilegio is 100% air-dried Fiano. Apricot jam, wild flowers, honey and burnt sugar all meld together nicely in the glass. Subtle hints of earthiness add complexity on the creamy, expressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Once again, Feudi impresses for the sheer breadth of their range. From top to bottom, this is a terrific set of wines from one of the benchmark wineries in Campania, and all of Italy, for that matter. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2008 Privilegio is a sweet wine made from late-harvest, botrytised Fiano. Apricots, flowers, mint and tangerine flow from this gracious, mid-weight dessert wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is, of course, from Basilicata. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 1995 Privilegio is a sweet, after dinner dessert wine made from ripe botrytised fruit and aged in small barriques. The wine is rich and dense, with a honeyed caramel, creme brulee-like nose, a medium golden color, and sweet, medium to full-bodied, long, honeyed flavors. It represents a good imitation of a top-class Barsac/Sauternes. The white wines from this estate in the Campania region have received unofficial consulting advice from Zind-Humbrecht. Whether it is because of that, or just due to the increased attention to detail, the whites have improved over recent years. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620