The 1996 Serpico (a blend of 60% Aglianico, 30% Piedirosso, and 10% Sangiovese) displays an opaque ruby color with purple nuances. It is full-bodied and rich, with copious quantities of pepper, chocolate, and cherry jam. If not for the presence of gritty tannin in the finish, this wine may have merited an outstanding score. Perhaps that will dissipate with age as this offering is capable of evolving for a decade. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The nearly outstanding 1995 Serpico is a limited production (about 160 cases) wine made from 60% Aglianico, 30% Piedirosso, and 10% Sangiovese, aged in 100% French oak for 12 months prior to being bottled without filtration. The wine exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, and a spicy, black-raspberry and black-cherry nose with sweet vanillin aromas. Fleshy, generous, full-bodied, lush, and heady, this low acid, big, flattering, showy red wine will drink well for the next 5-7 years. Interestingly, the vineyard in Campania is located only about 25 miles from the superb vineyards of Montevetrano. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620