Notes of baked apple, mango, papaya, toffee caramel, pie crust and cream. Medium- to full-bodied, textural and creamy. A little oily, too, yet with vivid, tense acidity and mineral notes on the finish. Drink or hold.

The Fontana Candida 2017 Frascati Superiore Riserva Luna Mater is a popular choice, often seen at local trattorie in Rome, that represents a blend of 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 30% Malvasia del Lazio, 10% Greco and 10% Bombino. Following harvest, the grapes are cold soaked at the winery before going through a two-part fermentation. A first batch of grapes is pressed softly and fermented with the skins in small oak barrels. A second part of the fruit is harvested a bit later, destemmed and the whole berries are added to the must of the first batch. This process allows for more aromatic freshness and varietal character. The wine is aged inside a tufo rock cave for one year. This pretty wine opens to pear, summer peach and grapefruit aromas. There are lighter touches of pine nut and almond at the back. Some 15,000 bottles were made.

Made with Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio, Greco and Bombino grapes, the 2012 Frascati Superiore Luna Mater Riserva is a representative wine for its popular appellation. This Riserva shows thick lines and medium-bodied appeal with ripe fruit notes of apricot, Golden Delicious apple, pear and honey. Instead of sharpness, the wine offers soft lines and some fattiness in its texture. It is made in part with late harvest fruit to achieve that extra richness.

Celebrate the best of Lazio cuisine (think platters of frutti di mare or puntarelle, a spear-like endive salad dressed in anchovies and garlic) with Frascati Superiore Luna Mater. The wine’s soft aromas include subtle pulses of vanilla, banana and stone fruit.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 88