The recently-released Duboeuf 2009 Morgon Prestige – which was only bottled late last year – exhibits some extraneous notes from barrel; high-toned, borderline volatile esters; and a bit of drying tannin. On the plus side of the ledger, though, it displays an ample reservoir of ripe and surprisingly brightly-concentrated dark berry juices pungently tinged with brown spices and game. This finishes with impressive vigor if faint roughness and the aforementioned drying edge of wood. I would want to monitor it carefully if inclined to put any away for more than another year. (The corresponding Fleurie was rougher, more volatile, more obviously woody, and hence – despite still-strong fruit – considerably less satisfying.) George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Though neither the 2005 Jean Descombes, Chaponne, or Bellevue Morgons are recommended, Duboeuf’s 2005 Morgon Cuvee Prestige is a standout. Large quantities of sweet dark cherries lightly dusted with new oak spices are found in its nose. Expansive, medium to full-bodied and reminiscent of a top-flight Cote de Beaune (at a fifth of the price), this wine’s personality bursts with broad layers of pure red and black cherries. Drink it between 2007 and 2015. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463.