The 2009 Fleurie Chateau de Bachelards – from an estate new to the Duboeuf portfolio, and recently converted to an organic regimen – was raised in small part in barrique, which has lent a faintly resinous overtone to its aromas of blackberry-cherry liqueur and smoky black tea. Sweet fruit on the palate is slightly blocked by a drying note in the finish that may also be attributable to the intrusion of wood, though this is still an impressively rich wine that will be well worth revisiting from bottle. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Produced from old vines whose yields were lowered by snow and hail in April (25 hectoliters per hectare), the 2005 Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards explodes from the glass with oodles of waxy red as well as black cherries. A seductive, sensual effort, its medium to full-bodied core boasts terrifically pleasurable waves of flavorful red cherries. This broad wine also sports a long, seamless finish. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463.